Probably more info than anyone wanted, but you will never have a sump related spill this way. If that operating water level is so low that it causes the pump to suck a small amount of air you may want to go to a smaller sump foot print. Eventually you will find a water level that won't flood the tank. If it looks like it is going to overflow stop the pump! Next drain some water from the system and try again. Once you have everything set up and running, close all drains and let the display tank fill with water. A smaller sump will let the water level drop faster and add less water to the display before it sucks enough air to stop pumping.Įven if you go with a beananimal style overflow you should test the water level in your sump. Most pumps will start sucking some air when the water level gets within an inch of the intake, so we want to keep the water level above that point at all times during normal operation. Part of controlling this balance is the size of the sump. Once the pump sucks air it won't be able to push water anymore, and the tank won't overfill. The water must be kept low enough so that if the siphon does fail the water level in the sump will drop low enough for the return pump to start sucking air before the water level in the tank reaches the top. Again preventing a flood is controlled by operating water level in the sump. With a proper U tube siphon and adequate flow to keep air bubbles moving through it the only thing that can happen is some thing clogs the pipe. The other concern is of course the HOB siphon failing for whatever reason. The amount of water back flowing into the sump can be controlled by having siphon breaks near the water line. Most know, or soon find out, that the water level in the sump has to be kept low enough so that when the pump is off water draining from the tank won't overflow the sump. I don't know if there really will be much shadowing considering the lights will be at the most placed in the middle of the tank if not slightly forwards of centre.Ĭlick to expand.People that have them flood just don't have the water level set correctly. The tank is 24" front to back and the width (left to right) of the glass-holes box is 18" (again, 6" front to back). A concern with a 6" front to back internal box is shadowing underneath from the light. I think the ghost will also be quieter but I don't think the glass-holes is really that loud to start. It is probably going to be close to $100 more that the custom Glass-holes box. It has a removable front grill for maintenance. The advantage of the Ghost is that the internal box is only just over an inch front to back and the main box is external, I believe 4 1/2" front to back. They were also good enough to refer me to Reef Savy and their brand new product the Ghost Overflow: I have the option of having them make a box similar dimensions but 6" front to back to allow access to the top of the box in front of the eurobracing. The overflo is 3 1/2 inches front to back and it leaves no space for install or maintainance as it needs to be right up under the eurobrace glass. 000kit.htm ) but it won't work out as a standard product they retail. I have been very excited to use a glass-holes internal overflow box (. I want to rip out the existing overflo's and install a rear-wall mounted internal box. The tank has a brutal design for the overflo's, basically turns it into a 6'6" wide tank due to lost space from the overflo's. Euro braced so the entire top perimeter has 3 1/2 of horizontal glass. Adjusting the flow on the downspout using a gate valve can also help raise the DT water levels, although it's a balancing act.Looking for advice and especially any personal experience. Also when the water level in the sump drops off, the flow rate of the pump is reduced and the herbie overflow starts to gurgle, this is a good audible way to determine when to add top-off water.Īs for keeping the water level stable in your display tank, it depends on where the skimmer box is located. If the gate valve gets clogged, it will use the wide-open emergency drain down spout, which is a bit noisy but serves as a warning that something isn't working right. There is a second down-spout which I have a PVC riser set about 1/8" above the normal water level. Since air doesn't get into the down spout it doesn't gurgle. Currently I'm using the Herbie method, so I have an opening at the very bottom (no PVS risers / durso overflow ubends etc) and the valve is chocked down so that there is always 2-3 inches of water over it. The idea is to match the down-flow to your pump so that the water level in the overflow stays the same level. It took me a while to silence my overflow but I started with a ball valve and moved to a gate PCV valve for my 1500gph overflow.
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